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How to Zero Rifle Scopes?
You've just got yourself a new rifle scope, fitted it and
let me guess...for some reason your shots are landing nowhere
near the crosshairs?
Sadly there's more to rifle scope sharp shooting than just
plonking the scope on the rifle and forever after shooting like
an SAS sniper! You have to "zero" it.
Think about it. It's like a bike wheel. If
you tighten the bolts wrong, too much on one side for example,
it spins wrong and rubs the brake pads. It's the same with a
Rifle scope. If it's not set up correctly it will be offline
and even at short air rifle, airsoft and paintball ranges this
is going to throw your accuracy right off. At longer ranges
you'll miss by a mile (well figuratively anyway!)
What Does "Zero a scope" mean?
Zeroing a sight or scope means getting the crosshair in
position so that when you shoot. Ground zero if you like. The
point of impact.
There's a lot of discussion amongst shooters on the best way
to zero a scope or sight. What I've written below is what I've
been sending out to my ebay scope buyers for the last year
or so and received a lot of good comments back about it so I
know it's OK!

How to Zero a Rifle Scope
First of all you need to set a firm foundation by
fitting the scope mounts and scope onto the rifle
perfectly:
- Put the scope mounts on the rifle first with the top
brackets removed. Just like this:

- Tighten them into place using 1/2 turns at the time so
that they sit solid and level as best as is possible, i.e.,
the downward pressure is as equal as possible. At this
stage don't tighten them fully as you might
want to slide them up and down a little.
-
Now take scope and place it on top of the open rifle
mounts.
- Position the eyepiece by sliding the scope back
and forwards. You may have to move one or both
rings to get this right.
- Position the rings so the scopes eyepiece will
be the correct distance from your shooting eye when
the gun is held naturally.
- This is usually between 2 and 3 inches from the
eyepiece lens, but it is the spot at which the
image in the scope appears as full and bright as it
gets.
- To see what this looks like, move your head
back and forth along the stock, as you look through
the scope with both eyes open.
- Then, position your head on the cheek piece
where you want it to be and move the scope back and
forth until the image appears bright and full.
- Make sure the windage and elevation turrets are
positioned correctly - Elevation (up and down
cross-hair adjustment) on top and windage (left and
right movement) to the right.
- Then put the top mount brackets on and tighten -
Tighten them until the scope is held secure but can still
be rotated with your hand (Not very tight)
-
Now align the vertical cross-hair with both eyes open
and the gun held naturally to your shoulder. Rotate the
scope until the vertical reticle seems to bisect the
gun perfectly.
- OK? Yes - Now tighten the
base of the rings
securely to the gun top
(NOT the top rings
yet, that's next)
-
Now it's time to tighten the top cap rings. You need to
take this carefully and slowly as it's a critical step.
It's not hard, just be patient.
- Tighten each screw partially, then move to the
next one and go around the pattern of screws many
times, rather than tightening each screw all the
way on the first try.
- You will put even tension on the caps and be
less likely to dent the scope tube this way.
- If there are two screws on the side of the
ring, tighten only one, then tighten the one on the
opposite corner of the other side of the cap (see
graphic below).
- Leave the other two screws for the moment and
tighten two screws on the other ring next.
- Then come back to mount one and tighten the two
screws you left loose.
- Then back to the other ring and keep rotating
until the scope is secure.
- It takes less tightening that you might think.
They need be firm not as tight as possible. Err on
the side of too loose, rather than too
tight.
This is the order of screw tighten in the case of a double
screw mount. If you have a single screw each
side then do it as 1 - 4 - 5 - 8 (you get my
drift I hope) basically you want pressure to be as even as
possible throughout the process and not risk damaging the tube
of having uneven pressure on one side that will make zeroing
more difficult.

Next step -
Now that your scope is set up it's time to have some fun
and shoot a bit.
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